Accent Lighting - Depending on the size of the bathroom accent lighting can add a little drama to a bathroom by creating visual interest. As part of the decorating scheme, accent lighting can be used to spotlight particular objects that are especially attractive or interesting in the bathroom
Color - Think about the importance of color in your bathroom interior, then use proper lighting to bring out that dramatic color.
Dimming Systems - Today's dimming systems enable you to do several things: lower light levels to conserve energy and increase bulb life, vary the mood of a room, and alter the intensity of the light to suit the activity. In the bathroom a dimmer might be used to create a cozy night light out of an otherwise bright lighting system.
General Lighting - General lighting provides an area with overall illumination. Also known as ambient lighting, general lighting radiates a comfortable level of brightness, enabling one to see and walk about safely. In the bathroom this general lighting probably should be provided by incandescent or halogen lighting.
Indirect Lighting - Coves, soffits and other concealed locations can also be used to provide very pleasant, very effective indirect lighting using T5 or T8 fluorescent strip fixtures. If fluorescent lighting is used in the bathroom, if at all, it should have a very low color temperature (3000K) and a very high color rendering index (85 or even higher).
Layers of Light - There are three basic types of lighting that work together to light a bathroom: general lighting, task lighting, and accent lighting. A good lighting plan combines all three types to light an area, according to function and style.
Low-Voltage Halogen Lighting - Low-voltage halogen lighting offers a very white, crisp kind of light source that has excellent color rendering capabilities and often makes materials like cut glass or polished tile "sparkle".
Task Lighting - In the bathroom, especially around mirrors, task lighting is critical. Task lighting can assist in performing specific tasks such applying makeup, shaving, dressing a wound, or performing a manicure. It is recommended that special neodymium light bulbs be used in these applications since they provide excellent light that very closely simulates sunlight.
Vanity Lighting - Recessed down-lights should NOT be used to light your face while standing at a mirror because the light coming from these fixtures can cause too many shadows on your face. Instead, light fixtures that are attached to the wall either above or beside the mirror should be used. That way, shadows on your face can be minimized. Recessed downlights can be used in other parts of the bathroom for general lighting but NOT for task lighting at the vanity.
Wall Grazing - Wall grazing provides dramatic illumination that reveals the texture of special materials, such as the brick, stone, or tile. Wall grazing is uneven, brighter and scalloped at the top of the wall. For the most exciting effects, use PAR lamps in small aperture down-lights. Locate the downlights no more than 12 inches from the wall and the same distance apart. Wall grazing also lights polished surfaces, such as marble without distracting reflections in the surface.
Wall Washing - Wall washers are special down-lights that direct light up to the top of the wall. They eliminate the shadows, sometimes called "scallops", which are characteristic of simple down-lights. Do not space wall washers more than 36 inches apart. For the smoothest effect, space wall washers 24 inches from the wall and 24 inches apart. Avoid locating wall washers near doors where they can glare into the eyes of people entering the room. Be aware of flickering light or an electrical device that works sometimes and other times does not. This could be the indication of a loose connection somewhere. This is different from dimming and brightening of lights. That is frequently caused by a problem from the power company wiring but could also be in the house main panel.
Take care of your books like you would yourself. With a little care, books can look a lot younger as they grow older.
If there was something called "Book Abuse" most of us would have been booked under it. Consciously or unconsciously most of us treat books with as much disrespect as we would our adversary. In the process, we send our books to the grave even before they reach adolescence. More often than not, books are subject to poor handling, harsh light, dust, insects, improper storage, food stains, water spillage and even used as coasters, whenever convenient. Books are borrowed and lent in abandon, almost like shuffling from one adoptive home to another. Books hold valuable information and have immense antiquarian value. They are also the most treasured collectibles.
Books are as sensitive as Homo sapiens : Maybe books can't talk, but they are as affected, by humidity, temperature fluctuations, insects, harsh light, dust and water damage. It's life depends upon a stable, cool, clean and non-humid environment. Temperature and Humidity
These are two sure causes for deterioration. High humidity promotes mold growth, dank smell of mildew, tiny brown spots called foxing, curled pages and attracts insects, whereas as extreme low humidity can dry out leather bindings. Books turn acidic over time, with higher temperature and moisture they turn acidic faster. Temperature fluctuations also take their toll on books. Preventive Measure: The ideal temperature for your books would be 68 degree Fahrenheit with about 50 percent relative humidity. An air-conditioner will do the job. First Aid: Use a dehumidifier to increase or lower the humidity as required. Mold growth only in the early stages can be dusted off, in the advanced stage can cause irreparable damage. Allow air to circulate around the books and a little sun can take care of the smell of mildew.
With rising levels of temperature and humidity come house pests or insects. Silverfish, cockroaches and mice love books like their own. Preventive Measure: Keep the storage area clean, free of food and garbage and air-conditioned. First Aid: Sprinkle boric acid powder around your books, not in or on them. In case of serious damage to your book collection, check with an entomologist.
Light and Dust
The ultraviolet rays of sun can permanently damage fading its leather or cloth jacket from blue to dull green and red to brown. Weakening and aging paper, brittleness and discoloration are the other side affects. Dirt and dust not only harm books, but also reduce their value. Preventive Measure: Always keep the blinds closed and store books away from sunshine. Keep the room as dark as possible. Dust and wipe books regularly with a soft and dry cloth or a feather duster.
Books stored in garages and near plumbing systems suffer the most, developing mold and mildew. Preventive Measures: Keep books in a dry area, away from dampness and windows during the monsoon months. First Aid: Open the book into a fan shape and place paper towels between the pages to soak in the moisture. Replace these periodically with dry towels. Place the books open near fans to allow for free air circulation. When half dry use a hair dryer to complete the drying process.
Few people pay heed to the way they handle, store or photocopy pages from books. Even fewer are affected by scribbling in them, which is almost akin to graffiti. Handling Books
Books are forced to lay unnaturally flat just to convenience the reader, pulled off the shelf from the top of its spine and interspersed with paper clips and folded page corners for future reference. Skin oil and perspiration stain paper and wet fingers weaken them. Preventive Measure: Always use clean and dry hands to handle books. Tightly bound books are better laid on a book support. Acid-free paper strips can be used for marking and not colored 'post-its.' Books should be free from rubber bands because they tend to curl and damage the paper. Rubber bands even melt slightly with heat sticking to paper. Never lay books face down.
Usually, either books are placed prettily in showcases for their aesthetic value or stored in boxes in a crammed attic or garage. Little regard is given to the right way of storing them. Overstuffing storage boxes cramp and crease, while under filling allows for sagging and bending of books and their covers. Preventive Measure: While shelving maintain a space of 3/8 inch between each book for easy removal. Stand books vertically on their bottom edges and place books of even heights and thickness together. Do not place books horizontally on a vertically arranged shelf. If storing in boxes, choose small boxes for convenience and to cut down stress and strain on the books. Store snugly in boxes. Seal the boxes with tape.
Photocopying has become such a necessary part of our lives, that we do not give a second thought to the damage it might do to books. Photocopying loosens the book jacket, crushes the spine and in the case of delicate material even loosens the pages. Preventive Measure: Never press down on the spine of books while photocopying, especially with large and heavy books. Do not lean your weight on the lid of the photocopying machine with the book beneath.
Few can resist writing their names in books and scribbling comments in the inside pages. This reduces its value significantly. Preventive Measure: Write with a light and soft pencil and keep your comments to yourself. Use a bookplate to label your books.
Some tips for younger, healthier books :
Keep fragile books in custom made boxes.
Avoid using adhesive and sticky tapes on books.
Do not use books as coasters.
To protect books from wear and tear use plastic dust jackets.
The simple rule of thumb is to clean a piece of jewelry according to the limitations of its most fragile component. For example, it your earrings contain both pearls and sapphires, you should look for instructions on how to clean pearls. (In this case, use warm water and mild soap. Rinse and dry the piece thoroughly.)
It's a good idea to take your rings off when doing rough work. Even though diamonds are durable, they can be chipped by a hard blow. Perspiration and dirt can cause your jewelry to dull.
Bring your diamond jewelry to your jeweler a least twice a year to have them check your ring and other precious pieces for loose prongs and wear of mountings.
When you are not wearing your jewelry, put it in a fabric-lined jewelry case with dividers so they won't come on contact with each other (avoiding the possibility of scratching your jewelry).
Don't expose your jewelry to salt water or harsh chemicals, like chlorine bleach.
Don't wear your sterling silver jewelry in chlorine water.
The use of hair spray, make-up, hand lotions and perfumes can cause jewelry to dull. Put your jewelry on after you have used any of these to prolong their luster.
Store your silver in a cool, dry place, preferably in a tarnish preventative bag or wrapped in a soft piece of felt or cloth.
It is a good idea to bring your pearls in to your jewelry at least once a year to have them restrung. Normal wear tends to weaken and stretch the threads on which pearls are strung.
When you have your pearls restrung, make sure they are knotted between each pearl. This will prevent the loss of pearls if the string should break.
Don't wear your watch while swimming, bathing or doing, hot, strenuous work unless the degree of water-resistance was clearly specified when you purchased the watch.
Replace broken or scratched watch crystals promptly. Even the smallest crack can let in dust or moisture that can threaten its accuracy.
Pearls, coral and porous stones such as opal, turquoise and malachite should be kept away from oils, chemical and dirty water to avoid discoloration. Wipe them gently with a soft, damp cloth.
Ultrasonic cleaners should not be used with stones subject to internal stress -- tanzanite, opal, emerald, organic gems (pearl, coral and amber), turquoise, lapis, malachite and any stone containing major inclusions. Use warm water and mild soap, rinse and dry thoroughly.
Opal, pearls, coral, amber, turquoise are heat sensitive (both to extremes and sudden changes in temperatures). Do not leave them sitting in hot sunlight, near radiators, or in hot cars.
More Jewelry Tips ...
1. Avoid wearing your jewelry especially white gold in a chlorine pool or a hot tub. The chemicals may slowly erode the finish, weaken the prongs, and discolor the gold or sterling silver.
2. Use ? water and ? ammonia to clean diamonds and some colored stones. Dip the jewelry into this solution and use a soft brush to clean under the prongs. DO NOT clean the following stones in this solution: Turquoise, opal, emeralds, tanzanite, pearls, amber, coral and ivory, shell cameos, lapis, bone, horn, any assembled stone
3. Store your jewelry in separate soft boxes or plastic bags to avoid scratching the finishes.
4. Platinum is an extremely durable precious metal. It is resistant to tarnishing and discoloration due to chlorine and other chemicals but needs to be cleaned like gold jewelry.
5. Clean silver jewelry with a non-detergent soap and water, using a small, soft brush to clean under the stones. To remove tarnish, try a polishing cloth. They are charged with a cleaning compound just for silver.
6. Hair spray, perfume and perspiration can weaken the silk thread that pearls are strung on. The corrosive effects can damage pearl luster.
7. Should your pearl strand break, the knots in between each pearl will prevent the loss of any pearl. Knots separate pearls to prevent them from rubbing against each other.
8. Clean pearls only with a non-detergent soap, rinse and pat dry.
9. Place a piece of aluminum foil, shiny side up, on the bottom of a glass bowl or glass pan. Fill the container with a solution of boiling water and three teaspoons of baking soda. To remove tarnish, soak any sterling silver and good quality silver plate (the finish on cheap silver plate will bubble if it's soaked).
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