Choosing Barstool & Table Height: Buying Proportional and Comfortable Bar Furniture
Whether you are setting up a home bar, casual dining set, or are looking for seating for a countertop, the stools that you choose will become one of your most important home furnishings. To help you purchase the stools that meet your needs, we have compiled this guide to explain how to decide the stools that work best for you. NOTE: Heights for stool seats are measured differently by each manufacturer. Since there is no industry standard, take the following helpful tips as a general guide that may not apply to your specific product.
First Things First...Measure Your Existing Counter or Table
In order to determine what type of barstool or counterstool you need, measure the table or counter that they are intended to be used with. Measure the distance from the floor to the top of the table. It is recommended to have a 10-12 inch difference between your table top and seat (Ex: a 42" table top works best with a 30" stool.) It is also important to measure the overhang of the table. Tables with a wide overhang may need a certain height stool. For example, it might seem best to purchase a 32" stool for a 42" table, but if there was an overhang of 6", it might be more comfortable to use a 30" stool instead. Once you have these measurements, you are ready to decide what height or type of stool you need.
Get To Know the Bar Stool Lingo
Chairs and bar stools, like other furniture, have industry-specific terms that you'll often see when browsing our site. Knowing what types of stools will match your table or counter height is important before purchasing the perfect product:
Dining Height: Dining Tables are typically around 28"-30" high. Therefore, the dining chairs that match these tables usually have a seat that is 16"-18" high. However, you can also use shorter backless or swivel stools that measure 18" high.
Counter Height: Counter Height Tables are typically around 35"-36" high. Therefore, the counter stools that match these tables are usually in the 24-26" Range. Counter Height furniture is typically used in casual dining setups, pub sets, and home kitchen islands.
Bar Height: Bar Height Tables are typically around 40"-42" in height. Correspondingly, the bar stools are in the 28"-30" range. Bar Height furniture is most commonly used with home bars but can also be found in some pub sets and counter set ups.
Extra-Tall or "Spectator" Height: Extra-Tall tables and bars are typically around 45"-48" high. Therefore, the tall barstools that match these tables are usually in the 32-34" Range. Spectator Height furniture is typically used in commercial settings such as bowling alleys, pool halls, restaurants, and home bars.
Custom Barstools: Furniture Made Your Way
Not every bar and counter will fall within these mentioned standard height ranges, and your own comfort and preferences may not match these previous examples. Luckily, there are options. We carry a number of custom height barstools with a seat heights ranging from 24" to 30" and every measurement in between. We also carry chairs and small stools with a seat height as low as 18"-23" for lower tables. Remember the recommended distance is 10-12 inches from the top of the table to the seat height. Every person is different and therefore what works best will be different. It is important to think about what will meet your individual needs. A taller person may feel more comfortable with a bar height set. A smaller person may select a 32" stool for a 42" bar. The most important thing that you can do before making your purchase is to measure out the sizes of what you would be getting and make sure that it works for you.
Selecting the Perfect Number of Barstools
The last question many people ask is how many stools are enough? Knowing how much room to give each stool is important to creating the perfect bar or table environment. Here are some tips of the trade to allow for enough room in between stools:
Stools ~16"-18" wide: allow for 21"-22" of space
Stools ~19"-22" wide: allow for 24"-25" of space
Swivel Stools or Stools with Arms: allow for even more space
Tips for amateurs to taking better photographs with any type of camera.
Everyone enjoys having photographs of family, friends, vacations, and interesting sites to capture memories and perhaps express a little creativity. Often times, a simple adjustment or two can greatly improve the shot, bringing even more pleasure to the finished photograph. Whether the photographer is using an expensive 35 MM SLR type of camera, or a simple, inexpensive 110 disposable pocket camera, attention to a few details can make all the difference in improving your pictures.
The main areas where anyone can improve are content, lighting, and angle: CONTENT
Flip through your favorite magazines and notice how professional photographers "frame" their subjects. Grouping a nice collection of objects or people together is one method of creating good content, and isolation of a single subject is another. Remember who is going to be looking at your pictures and what you want them to see.
Taking photographs of several objects or people can make a beautiful layout. A group of people standing together can turn out nicely if you ask them to act "natural" and place them in a natural setting. For example, having them all sit randomly on a large rock is more natural than having them line up like a classroom of kindergartners in a yearbook. The surrounding scenery can provide more color and interest, too.
Indoors, if taking a portrait of your office crew, why not have them all standing around the coffee machine as if chatting, or have them act as if they are working and you caught them with your camera. The more natural the background and subject, the better the photograph will look in the end. Most "posed" pictures are not much fun to look at, although there may be the rare occasion where this type of shot is desired.
Outdoors, things such as groupings of flowers, trees and the like in nature can be balanced by being aware of how many items you wish to include and the angle at which you take the picture. Keep in mind your final product and how you would like it to appear. Do you want to show the detail in one little daisy, or would you like to capture the whole field of daisies?
Sometimes it helps to include an object for size reference with your subject, such as a person standing next to that cactus can show just how huge it was, or placing your little child beside a common object, such as a door in your home, can help register their height at that particular age.
The most common mistake amateur photographers make is having too much background that is not related to the subject. By getting a little closer, and/or zooming in on your subject a little, try to isolate your subject from all the surrounding blank walls or chaos. Getting closer can also capture a little more detail in your subject itself. Be careful and know how close you can get with your particular camera model, as getting too close can cause your shot to come out distorted or out of focus. Some of the best people portraits are gained by filling the whole picture frame with their face and capturing the detail of their expression and likeness.
Lighting is something you must be very aware of in order to take better photographs. Even with the simplest camera equipment, the amount, direction, and quality of light make all the difference between a great photo and a terrible one.
Despite most amateur photographers' beliefs that you need lots of bright lighting, most cameras take better photographs with indirect lighting. This would be an overcast day or light shade outdoors, and a covered flash indoors. You can cover your flash with a light white cloth, which will allow some of the light through, but not bring such a harsh light to your subject.
The direction of direct, harsh light brings problems to your pictures. If facing the sun, your subjects will end up squinting, but with their back to the sun, their face may turn out too shaded, and you risk getting the glare of the sun in your camera lens. With more indirect type of lighting, you do not have to worry about glare or shadows so much.
Sometimes, though, you can use direct lighting and shadows to your advantage, such as taking a close up of a person's face, allowing direct light to shine on one half of their face, and the other half cast in shadow. This may bring out their unique facial features. This can also work well with rock formations, with the longer shadows of early morning or late evening giving more of a feeling of depth and angles in your subject than taking a straight on picture at high noon. If you choose to shoot in bright sunlight, always make sure the sun is not pointing directly into your camera, but is at some angle to your back.
Choosing your angle can make a great deal of difference in the interest of your photography as well. Don't be afraid to move around and see how the view looks from higher, lower, to one side, or even turning your camera for an angular or longwise shot. Try placing the subject in different parts of the picture, the top, bottom, or to the side, rather than always dead center. Intentionally off-center shots are very much the rage with professional photographers today.
A final word: accept the fact that as you practice and experiment, you will have some bad shots, but as you look at these, try to learn from them by asking yourself what you could have done differently to improve your photograph. Then your experience will not be wasted.
The keys to taking better photographs are being aware of your content, your lighting, and your angle; not being afraid to experiment; allowing yourself to be a little bit creative; and knowing what your camera can do.
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