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Purchasing a new Mattress

Purchasing a new Mattress

Purchasing a new Mattress When shopping for a mattress wear shoes you can get in and out of easily.
  • Test the mattress by laying full-length out on the bed. Try it out like you're going to use it, and spend some time on it to see how it really feels.
  • If you feel silly, just think how silly you're going to feel when you don't sleep comfortably after spending all that money!
  • Note the gauge of the wire as well as the coil count. The smaller the #, the heavier the wire is.
  • Always buy box springs at the same time. They are made to be a set.
  • Use a heavy-duty bed frame with good center support.
  • Stick with a name brand.
  • Don't assume that a higher price means a better mattress.
  • Stay away from department stores - they're always higher and sometimes the name-brand companies make mattresses to fit the store's specifications. You might not be getting the mattress you think you are. Look for a mattress warehouse or factory.
  • Remember that all "pillow top" mattresses will get body impressions (except latex toppers.)
  • Make sure your mattress has a non pro rata warranty of 10 years.
  • Shop around, compare delivery prices, and find out if the company will remove your old mattress for you.
  • Buy a mattress with a minimum of 312 coils (fine for children), with 540 being the absolute best. Full-size should have at least 300, queen-size at least 375 and king-size at least 450.

  • For the bed to be right, it should yield enough for you to sink slightly, but not too much, into the bed. LIE DOWN on the mattress, preferably with your sleeping partner, before you buy. You're not going to be bouncing up and down on the edge of the mattress with you get home!
  • For a dry bed, choose a mattress with comfort layers made of latex and insulating pat made of coconut fiber. Stay away from wool because wool can grow mold when damp that could trigger asthma problems.
  • A mattress should be an innerspring at least nine inches thick. Don't buy budget when you're buying a mattress. A good mattress will last you 10 to 15 years and will end up costing only pennies a night even at the high-end prices. Shop smart, but don't scrimp.

    Mattress Terms :
  • Foundation - absorbs the shock of daily wear and provides support and durability.
  • Core - provides support for the body and can be spring, air, foam or water.
  • Upholstery - Adds comfort and cushioning.
  • Coil Count - the number of coils in the mattress. High coil count gives better contouring while lower coil count if firmer.
  • Contour - how the mattress coils conform to the body for comfort.
  • Box Spring - supports and cushions the mattress.
  • Wire gauge - thickness of the wire coils. The thicker the wire, the less flexible the coils.
  • Comfort level - can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer with Plush being soft and fluffy, Firm being standard cushioning and Pillowtop being a mattress with extra layers of cushioning.
  • Non pro-rated warranty - a manufacturer's warranty against defects.
  • Pro-rated warranty - offers less coverage based on the number of years in the warranty.

    How to build an inexpensive child's sandbox

    How to build an inexpensive child's sandbox

    Learn how to build an inexpensive sandbox with minimal construction skills.
    Building your child's sandbox can be a fulfilling activity. By building it yourself, you get to choose the exact width and length that you would like, and can tailor it to your yard's dimensions more easily. Also, you will mostly likely end up with a much roomier sandbox than if you had bought one from the store.

  • The first thing you will need to do is decide where you would like the sandbox to be located. You will want to locate it in a spot that gets some shade in the summertime, yet isn't below a tree that will dump bucket loads of leaves into the sandbox, leaving you with mulch as opposed to sand. If you live in a cold climate, you may want to put it in the sun without any consideration of shade. Keep in mind that sandboxes are not especially portable, and wherever you put it, the grass underneath will die. Regardless, you will want to make sure that the ground is level.
  • Decide which shape sandbox you would like, and how large you would like it to be. If you would like a spacious rectangular sandbox, 2 four-foot boards and 2 six or eight-foot boards work nicely. For a square box, try 4 six or four-foot boards. Keep in mind that if you are watching expenses, the larger the sandbox, the more sand you will need to purchase. It seems obvious, but those bags of sand can really add up and make a dent in your wallet.

    You will need:
    - Four 1" x 10" boards in the length that you would like.
    - 8 corner braces
    - 16 3/4" screws
    - Plastic tarp in a size sufficient to cover the sandbox
    - Small roll of plastic sheeting
    - Sandpaper
    - Sand

    Usually, all of these items can be found at your local home improvement store. It is an added bonus if they sell sand, as it will probably be less expensive to buy it there rather than at your local toy store. Also, you will only have to make one trip! Just make sure that you get enough sand the first time. Think carefully about the kind of sand that you will buy, as "play sand" contains crystalline silica and carries a hazard warning in the state of California. Building sand may not be as pretty, can stain clothes, and may need to have larger particles sifted out, but it may be the safer choice. If you are buying by the truckload, it will also be the cheaper choice. Count on about a yard of sand to fill up the sandbox. This will vary, depending on how deep you want the sand to be and how large you decide to make the sandbox.

  • First of all, sand the boards. If you'd like, you can stain and varnish them as well, although this is not necessary. Unfinished boards weather nicely, and can give your yard a nice natural look. Make sure that you sand all of the rough edges off, so that little fingers don't get splinters.
  • Next, put together the boards using two of the braces for each corner. Put one brace near the top of the boards and the other one close to the bottom. After completing all four corners, you will end up with a square or rectangular open box. With a staple gun, staple the plastic sheeting to the bottom of the box, and then trim the excess with a pair of scissors.
  • Now you are ready to flip the sandbox and move it to the part of the yard you have decided on. Get another person to help you, because the sandbox is not reinforced, and can break at this point. You won't have to worry about the lack of reinforcement once it is filled with sand, but be careful when moving it. Make sure that there are no rocks or other protuberances on the ground where you are going to set it. The plastic, if not punctured, will keep any grass and weeds from growing in the sand.
  • Now fill the sandbox with sand. Find four heavy but manageable rocks and keep the tarp nearby. The rocks can be used to anchor the tarp when the sandbox is not in use. The tarp is essential if you do not want the sandbox to become a litter box for neighborhood cats. It will keep leaves out of the box as well.
  • If you like, you can do more with your sandbox. Simply by taking another board that is the same size and screwing it to the edge of the sandbox, facing in, you can make a bench.

    Your kids should enjoy the sandbox for years to come. You may want to replace the sand periodically, but this should not be an issue for at least two years. Meanwhile, your children can enjoy the sandbox that you built, and have a more enjoyable experience than being confined to one of the tiny ones offered in the toy stores.
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